I flirted with rock climbing years ago when I was living in Dallas, TX, but didn't get dedicated until I relocated to Houston for work in 2014. In that short time and since returning to Austin this past August, I've been fortunate to connect and climb with some pretty amazing folks, living the uncommon life, each with their own
unique stories to tell.
unique stories to tell.
I've learned so much from their experience, both for climbing and for life, that it's inspired this new 'Take 10' series featuring a few of these personalities. First up, Seiji Ishii. Seiji and I were introduced very early in my climbing through the outdoor program at Austin Rock Gym. He was my guide when I was working to build my outdoor skills before my first big trip to Moab, UT, and I now count him as a friend and one of my personal climbing Jedi Masters.
He's been a trainer to professional motocross and supercross riders for the past decade, boasting 12+ amateur national championships and a professional championship. Since 'retiring' (I use that term very loosely), he's returned to his past life as a full-time climber, outdoor enthusiast and gear designer. You can find him writing for both Upshift Online and Dirt Rider Magazine and providing gear reviews for Gear Institute, as well as developing and leading ARG's Performance Training Program.
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I climb because...
It’s a non-competitive sport that takes place in wilderness environments that has an element of risk. I am attracted to the wilderness and risk, and after a lifetime of competitive sports both as an athlete and a trainer, climbing offers the risk and wilderness without the negatives that can be spawned by person vs. person competition.
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My tried-and-true redpoint ritual:
Left shoe on first while mentally saying “it’s only climbing,” for perspective; right shoe on next while mentally saying “climb position to position (clip stances),” as a strategy. Tie in and connect in some way with the belayer. Touch rock with hands, breathe in through nose while saying “right here,” breathe out through mouth saying “right now,” to keep focus on the present.
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Essentials in my crag pack:
This is Texas. Lots of extra chalk, lots of water. Satellite messenger and first aid, just in case.
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The biggest impact on my development as a climber:
When I first started climbing, I lived with really passionate and basically full-time climbers. I was the weakest one of the group so I had the most to gain and they accepted me without regard to my ability. I will never forget.
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Favorite way to spend a rest day:
Having an adventure with my three year old daughter Sequoia. Cycling or dirt biking. Attempting to improve my photography.
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Last song I added to my playlist:
Life in a Northern Town by the Dream Academy. Yep, I’m old.
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If I could only climb one route, it would be...
Alpine route that started with an approach through the trees, giving way above treeline to alpine terrain before the glacier starts. Then climb a route that has glacier snow climbing, then crossing a ‘shrund so you have to climb ice, then mixed to gain the rock. Alpine rock to the summit. All forms of climbing in one route. Lots of this type of objective in the PNW.
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Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers:
Shelve your ego and seek mentorship, both for safety and progress.
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My personal climbing icon(s):
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In 2017, I'm planning to...
Fully recover from a dirt biking accident and return to solid 12’s on sport. Get 50+ trad multi pitch routes off my tick list. Be present and stoked when I’m around my daughter Sequoia. Hit up at least one alpine objective that adds to my progression in that realm. Stay up on dirt bikes.
Age gracefully. No. Fuck that. Beat age into submission.
Age gracefully. No. Fuck that. Beat age into submission.
—
Seiji Ishii
Climbing Guide/Coach, Action/Adventure Sports Writer, Rookie Father
Climbing Guide/Coach, Action/Adventure Sports Writer, Rookie Father
Wimberly, TX
t. @coachseiji
i. @coachseiji