Showing posts with label climb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label climb. Show all posts

Saturday, June 9, 2018

CLIMB | SMITH ROCK



Welp, it's officially summer in Austin. With temperatures rapidly approaching 100+, it was nice to escape with my friends Kelly and Foy to Smith Rock Memorial Day Weekend. This was my first climbing trip since ACL repair surgery in November, so I didn't have any real expectations.

Finally told my Type A, performance-driven self to shut up and just showed up and climbed. You know what? It was amazing. Got on a few routes that I could mayybeee only 'think' about last trip, made some new friends, ran into old ones, graduated to IPA (hazy!) and started what will now be a spring/summer Smith at Smith tradition.

Only managed to capture a few snaps of the weekend, but returned home with a full heart ready for more.





Monday, February 19, 2018

TAKE 10 WITH ELAINA ARENZ


I am constantly inspired by the wild talent and unique accomplishments of the women in climbing,
and Elaina Arenz is right at the top of my list.

We first connected through our mutual friend, Coach Seiji. I was a total fangirl, and in the fall of 2016 the stars finally aligned. That season I had a chance to climb with Elaina in Red Rock where she coached me through my first lead on trad. A milestone moment in my climbing that I'll never forget.

Elaina actually began her climbing career right here in Austin during college and holds a BS in Advertising (the irony isn't lost on her) from the University of Texas. She is the owner of New River Mountain Guides, but these days based in Las Vegas where she works as a full time guide in Red Rock.

She’s climbed all over the United States at many major climbing destinations, plus Europe and was instrumental in establishing El Potrero Chico, Mexico. She has been featured in many publications and magazines, most notably in Chris Noble’s book Women Who Dare: North America’s Most Inspiring Women Climbers

Elaina is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, and is one of the few female providers for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor discipline. She is also a Warrior’s Way Trainer and has taught the mental training method to others since 2004.

In 2001 she was awarded the Sharp End Award by for her outstanding contribution to climbers’ advocacy. Over the years she has organized many climber events, most currently she manages the athlete clinics for the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic at the New River Gorge.

| 1 |


I climb because...


It's fun, challenging and pushes me beyond my comfort zone. I love the travel and cultural opportunities it provides me and the people I get to spend time with.

| 2 | 


My tried-and-true redpoint ritual:


Visualize the route from bottom to top, identify rests and cruxes. Tie into the rope. Put climbing shoes on. Take a deep breath and start climbing.


| 3 |


Essentials in my crag pack:


Depends if I'm just personal climbing or guiding, but in addition to the usual gear (climbing shoes, harness, helmet, ATC, 4 ft sling), I never leave home without my Grigri and Petzl Freino carabiner. Belay gloves and Sterling Hollowblock are also must haves.

| 4 |


The biggest impact on my development as a climber:


Discovering the Warrior's Way method of climbing.

| 5 | 


Favorite way to spend a rest day:


Sleeping in, coffee in the sunshine, eating a big breakfast and chilling with my guy.

| 6 | 


Last song I added to my playlist:


LCD Soundsystem's album American Dream and The War on Drugs A Deeper Understanding.

| 7 |


If I could only climb one route, it would be...


Apollo Reed at Summersville Lake, WV. It's special because it was my first (hopefully not my last) 5.13 send and my buddy Seiji who taught me how to climb over 20 years ago was there to belay me the day I sent. I love it because it's super steep and pumpy, the falls are clean and it's a great training route to stay in shape for everything else.


| 8 |


Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers:


Remember to breathe. Control your breath and you can control your mind and body.

| 9 | 


My favorite climbing moment:

 

 In addition to sending Apollo Reed, I'd have to say summiting El Capitan last summer on my first big wall aid climb and leading my first WI5 Ice route this past winter in Ouray, CO.


| 10 | 


In 2018, I'm planning to...


Complete the first ascent of Darkhorse 8 which my guy and I established in memory of my late father. It's located at Mt. Charleston, NV and is 8 pitches long and should clock in around 5.13. I can't think of a better way to pay tribute and honor his memory.



Elaina Arenz
AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Warriors Way Trainer, La Sportiva & Bluewater Ambassador, Access Fund Board Member, Co-Owner Chicks Climbing
Las Vegas, NV




Monday, December 4, 2017

CLIMB | RED RIVER GORGE


Just a little over a month out from my ACL repair surgery and every day gets progressively better. Still limited to the stationary bike and hangboard. My friend Robert passed along this 2018 Pull-Up Challenge he found on Instagram that's also helping to keep me entertained until I can get back on the wall. My next follow up appointment with Dr. Windler is scheduled for this coming Tuesday, and I'm hoping I'll get cleared to add at least some light top roping into the mix.

Of course, it's easy to stay motivated looking back at these photos from October's visit to the Red River Gorge. This place is truly magical. Such an amazing experience and can't wait to get back next year!














Saturday, September 30, 2017

CLIMB | COSTA BLANCA


To say my trip to Spain this month with Rock & Sun was amazing is an understatement. My favorite place to climb always seems to be the last place I've been, but Costa Blanca was incredibly special. Got what I would qualify as my hardest send to date, made some great new friends and learned so much that has improved my climbing technique and onsite ability.

Definitely experiencing some post-trip blues and missing my daily walks to La Estufa to enjoy an outrageously good three-course meal with wine for just 12 Euro, but planning the next adventure always helps. Already looking at Morocco next fall with a couple of my new friends from Spain — and my first trip to the Red River Gorge in less than three weeks!

Until then, I'll be dreaming of Spanish limestone and the beautiful landscapes of Costa Blanca...










Saturday, March 4, 2017

TAKE 10 WITH COACH SEIJI



I flirted with rock climbing years ago when I was living in Dallas, TX, but didn't get dedicated until I relocated to Houston for work in 2014. In that short time and since returning to Austin this past August, I've been fortunate to connect and climb with some pretty amazing folks, living the uncommon life, each with their own
unique stories to tell. 

I've learned so much from their experience, both for climbing and for life, that it's inspired this new 'Take 10' series featuring a few of these personalities. First up, Seiji Ishii. Seiji and I were introduced very early in my climbing through the outdoor program at Austin Rock Gym. He was my guide when I was working to build my outdoor skills before my first big trip to Moab, UT, and I now count him as a friend and one of my personal climbing Jedi Masters. 

He's been a trainer to professional motocross and supercross riders for the past decade, boasting 12+ amateur national championships and a professional championship. Since 'retiring' (I use that term very loosely), he's returned to his past life as a full-time climber, outdoor enthusiast and gear designer. You can find him writing for both Upshift Online and Dirt Rider Magazine and providing gear reviews for Gear Institute, as well as developing and leading ARG's Performance Training Program.

|1|

I climb because... 

It’s a non-competitive sport that takes place in wilderness environments that has an element of risk. I am attracted to the wilderness and risk, and after a lifetime of competitive sports both as an athlete and a trainer, climbing offers the risk and wilderness without the negatives that can be spawned by person vs. person competition. 

|2|

My tried-and-true redpoint ritual: 

Left shoe on first while mentally saying “it’s only climbing,” for perspective; right shoe on next while mentally saying “climb position to position (clip stances),” as a strategy. Tie in and connect in some way with the belayer. Touch rock with hands, breathe in through nose while saying “right here,” breathe out through mouth saying “right now,” to keep focus on the present.


|3|

Essentials in my crag pack: 

This is Texas. Lots of extra chalk, lots of water. Satellite messenger and first aid, just in case.

|4| 

The biggest impact on my development as a climber: 

When I first started climbing, I lived with really passionate and basically full-time climbers. I was the weakest one of the group so I had the most to gain and they accepted me without regard to my ability. I will never forget.

|5| 

Favorite way to spend a rest day: 

Having an adventure with my three year old daughter Sequoia. Cycling or dirt biking. Attempting to improve my photography.


|6| 

Last song I added to my playlist: 

Life in a Northern Town by the Dream Academy. Yep, I’m old.

|7| 

If  I could only climb one route, it would be... 

Alpine route that started with an approach through the trees, giving way above treeline to alpine terrain before the glacier starts. Then climb a route that has glacier snow climbing, then crossing a ‘shrund so you have to climb ice, then mixed to gain the rock. Alpine rock to the summit. All forms of climbing in one route. Lots of this type of objective in the PNW.

|8|

Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers: 

Shelve your ego and seek mentorship, both for safety and progress.

|9| 

My personal climbing icon(s): 


|10| 

In 2017, I'm planning to... 

Fully recover from a dirt biking accident and return to solid 12’s on sport. Get 50+ trad multi pitch routes off my tick list. Be present and stoked when I’m around my daughter Sequoia. Hit up at least one alpine objective that adds to my progression in that realm. Stay up on dirt bikes.
Age gracefully. No. Fuck that. Beat age into submission.



Seiji Ishii
Climbing Guide/Coach, Action/Adventure Sports Writer, Rookie Father
Wimberly, TX



Saturday, November 26, 2016

CLIMB | RED ROCK CANYON


Well, the last of the Thanksgiving leftovers are packed up and headed back to Jackson with my Dad and Truman. So much to be thankful for this year and always — the love of family & friends, the opportunity to travel to beautiful landscapes, the health and ability to climb and experience the world from unique perspective. The list goes on.

My first trip to Red Rock Canyon last weekend did not disappoint. Quick trip with only a day and a half to climb, but definitely maximized the days with Elaina Arenz. I bagged my first lead on trad (SPI here I come!). Practiced building anchors, belay transitions and rope management and cruised a gorgeous 'off the grid' multi-pitch before returning to Austin on Sunday. Already scheming the next trip, Red Rock will definitely be on repeat in 2017.








Sunday, October 2, 2016

CLIMB | 10 MILE CANYON ROYAL FLUSH


I've been saying for the better part of the last year that I was going to extend one of my work trips to Denver and stay through the weekend to climb. A couple of weeks ago, I finally made it happen. My friend Max met me in Golden, CO, and we made the hour drive to Frisco early Saturday morning to have a go at Royal Flush, a 5.9, 8-pitch sport route located in 10 Mile Canyon on Mount Royal — my first proper multi-pitch.

The "planning" went something like this: 

Max: "Been interested in this if you're feeling multi-pitch." Max texts me the link to the route on Mountain Project.
Me: "Awesome."
Max: "Pretty sure we can be at the summit in six hours and hike off."

Well, you can't know what you don't know. 

We started our ascent at 9:30 that morning, and between my inefficient rope management, some tricky route finding between pitches and getting backed up waiting on other groups on the wall, it was some 9+ hours later before we made it to the summit at approximately 11K feet. Ah-mazing. Another hour and a half hike in the dark back to the car and a beer never tasted so good. 

After some sleep and a nice, greasy Denny's breakfast, our little mini-epic had me gunning for more. I definitely see a trad rack in my future...




photos: Max Deisch