TAKE 10 WITH ELAINA ARENZ

I am constantly inspired by the wild talent and unique accomplishments of the women in climbing,
and Elaina Arenz is right at the top of my list.

We first connected through our mutual friend, Coach Seiji. I was a total fangirl, and in the fall of 2016 the stars finally aligned. That season I had a chance to climb with Elaina in Red Rock where she coached me through my first lead on trad. A milestone moment in my climbing that I'll never forget.

Elaina actually began her climbing career right here in Austin during college and holds a BS in Advertising (the irony isn't lost on her) from the University of Texas. She is the owner of New River Mountain Guides, but these days based in Las Vegas where she works as a full time guide in Red Rock.

She’s climbed all over the United States at many major climbing destinations, plus Europe and was instrumental in establishing El Potrero Chico, Mexico. She has been featured in many publications and magazines, most notably in Chris Noble’s book Women Who Dare: North America’s Most Inspiring Women Climbers

Elaina is an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, and is one of the few female providers for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor discipline. She is also a Warrior’s Way Trainer and has taught the mental training method to others since 2004.

In 2001 she was awarded the Sharp End Award by for her outstanding contribution to climbers’ advocacy. Over the years she has organized many climber events, most currently she manages the athlete clinics for the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic at the New River Gorge.

| 1 |

I climb because...

It's fun, challenging and pushes me beyond my comfort zone. I love the travel and cultural opportunities it provides me and the people I get to spend time with.

| 2 | 

My tried-and-true redpoint ritual:

Visualize the route from bottom to top, identify rests and cruxes. Tie into the rope. Put climbing shoes on. Take a deep breath and start climbing.

| 3 |

Essentials in my crag pack:

Depends if I'm just personal climbing or guiding, but in addition to the usual gear (climbing shoes, harness, helmet, ATC, 4 ft sling), I never leave home without my Grigri and Petzl Freino carabiner. Belay gloves and Sterling Hollowblock are also must haves.

| 4 |

The biggest impact on my development as a climber:

Discovering the Warrior's Way method of climbing.

| 5 | 

Favorite way to spend a rest day:

Sleeping in, coffee in the sunshine, eating a big breakfast and chilling with my guy.

| 6 | 

Last song I added to my playlist:

LCD Soundsystem's album American Dream and The War on Drugs A Deeper Understanding.

| 7 |

If I could only climb one route, it would be...

Apollo Reed at Summersville Lake, WV. It's special because it was my first (hopefully not my last) 5.13 send and my buddy Seiji who taught me how to climb over 20 years ago was there to belay me the day I sent. I love it because it's super steep and pumpy, the falls are clean and it's a great training route to stay in shape for everything else.

| 8 |

Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers:

Remember to breathe. Control your breath and you can control your mind and body.

| 9 | 

My favorite climbing moment:

 

 In addition to sending Apollo Reed, I'd have to say summiting El Capitan last summer on my first big wall aid climb and leading my first WI5 Ice route this past winter in Ouray, CO.

| 10 | 

In 2018, I'm planning to...

Complete the first ascent of Darkhorse 8 which my guy and I established in memory of my late father. It's located at Mt. Charleston, NV and is 8 pitches long and should clock in around 5.13. I can't think of a better way to pay tribute and honor his memory.

—

Elaina Arenz

AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Warriors Way Trainer, La Sportiva & Bluewater Ambassador, Access Fund Board Member, Co-Owner Chicks Climbing

Las Vegas, NV

chicksclimbing.com

f.  @elaina.arenz

t. @Chicksclimbing

i. @lainersclimbs

NOW PLAYING | E+F JAN 18 PLAYLIST

Two weeks! That's it and will hopefully get the 'all clear' to climb again. I can't believe how quickly the time since my November ACL repair surgery has gone, but, I'll admit, these last two weeks seem to be craawlinggg.

Buzzed my friend Krystle from this past September's Spain adventure, and we're scheming a girls trip to Red Rock or Zion in May. Yeesss. Something to look forward to and continue to speed my recovery.

The E+F Jan 18 playlist is the current soundtrack playing in my head and keeping me in the spirit until I can get back on the wall. Enjoy!

(photo Zion National Park courtesy of @krysttothele)

CLIMB | COSTA BLANCA

To say my trip to Spain this month with Rock & Sun was amazing is an understatement. My favorite place to climb always seems to be the last place I've been, but Costa Blanca was incredibly special. Got what I would qualify as my hardest send to date, made some great new friends and learned so much that has improved my climbing technique and onsite ability.

Definitely experiencing some post-trip blues and missing my daily walks to La Estufa to enjoy an outrageously good three-course meal with wine for just 12 Euro, but planning the next adventure always helps. Already looking at Morocco next fall with a couple of my new friends from Spain — and my first trip to the Red River Gorge in less than three weeks!

Until then, I'll be dreaming of Spanish limestone and the beautiful landscapes of Costa Blanca...

CLIMB | RED ROCK CANYON

Well, the last of the Thanksgiving leftovers are packed up and headed back to Jackson with my Dad and Truman. So much to be thankful for this year and always — the love of family & friends, the opportunity to travel to beautiful landscapes, the health and ability to climb and experience the world from unique perspective. The list goes on.

My first trip to Red Rock Canyon last weekend did not disappoint. Quick trip with only a day and a half to climb, but definitely maximized the days with Elaina Arenz. I bagged my first lead on trad (SPI here I come!). Practiced building anchors, belay transitions and rope management and cruised a gorgeous 'off the grid' multi-pitch before returning to Austin on Sunday. Already scheming the next trip, Red Rock will definitely be on repeat in 2017.

Elaina Arenz, Chicks Climbing & Skiing

NOW PLAYING | E+F NOV 16

Vegas baby...VEGAS! Currently packing my bags for my first trip to Red Rock. Wheels up in less than 24/hours for a four-day weekend climbing with Elaina Arenz. I promised our mutual friend Coach Seiji I'd try not to fangirl her too much. Needless to say the psych is high, and the E+F Nov playlist definitely sets the vibe. Enjoy!

NOTED | 9.11.16

My fall climbing trip calendar has shaped up better than expected. Headed to Denver this week for work and will be staying through the weekend to climb between Clear Creek and 10 Mile Canyon. My first taste of climbing in CO and leading trad. So psyched.

Another trip to CO next month for the Access Fund 25th Anniversary Celebration and Red Rocks in November to climb with girl crush, Elaina Arenz. A serendipitous connection through our mutual friend, Coach Seiji.

Speaking of, started training this week with Seiji at Austin Rock Gym. He's developing their adult training program (stay tuned!), and guess who found herself as the guinea pig. Summary of the first week: well, I didn't die, but I'm definitely a 'project.' Seiji has his work cut out for him, but the process is the reward and already seeing some early progress.

Planning to escape to Reimers today to climb with some old and new friends, but not before posting a few things of note from around the Web this week.

Conrad Anker's journey from dirtbag to rock star.

Dyno lessons from Lynn Hill. 

The women you should know about in the outdoor gear industry. 

89 and she clocks more time on Rainier than many rangers and guides.

Where to rent a campervan for your next road trip.  

"A strong woman looks a challenge dead in the eye and gives it a wink."

photo: Western Rise

NOW PLAYING | E+F SEPT 16

Well here we are, summer's last bash. I for one could not be happier for the 3-day weekend. Extra time to unplug, get outside and maybe even do a little bit of *gasp* nothing. These days, I'm trying to practice being more present and in the moment, but I can't help thinking ahead to my fall climbing trip calendar. Things are looking good with CO and Red Rock already on the schedule.

Wherever you are and whatever you're doing this holiday weekend, the E+F Sept 16 playlist will help you celebrate these unofficial last days of summer and welcome the new fall season ahead. Enjoy.