I am constantly inspired by the wild talent and unique accomplishments of the women in climbing,
and Elaina Arenz is right at the top of my list.
We first connected through our mutual friend,
Coach Seiji. I was a total fangirl, and in the fall of 2016 the stars finally aligned. That season I had a chance to climb with Elaina in
Red Rock where she coached me through my first lead on trad. A milestone moment in my climbing that I'll never forget.
Elaina actually began her climbing career right here in Austin during college and holds a BS in Advertising (the irony isn't lost on her) from the University of Texas. She is the owner of
New River Mountain Guides, but these days based in Las Vegas where she works as a full time guide in Red Rock.
She’s climbed all over the United States at many major climbing destinations, plus Europe and was instrumental in establishing El Potrero Chico, Mexico. She has been featured in many publications and magazines, most notably in Chris Noble’s book
Women Who Dare: North America’s Most Inspiring Women Climbers
In 2001 she was awarded the Sharp End Award by for her outstanding contribution to climbers’ advocacy. Over the years she has organized many climber events, most currently she manages the athlete clinics for the
American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic at the New River Gorge.
| 1 |
I climb because...
It's fun, challenging and pushes me beyond my comfort zone. I love the travel and cultural opportunities it provides me and the people I get to spend time with.
| 2 |
My tried-and-true redpoint ritual:
Visualize the route from bottom to top, identify rests and cruxes. Tie into the rope. Put climbing shoes on. Take a deep breath and start climbing.
| 3 |
Essentials in my crag pack:
Depends if I'm just personal climbing or guiding, but in addition to the usual gear (climbing shoes, harness, helmet, ATC, 4 ft sling), I never leave home without my
Grigri and
Petzl Freino carabiner. Belay gloves and
Sterling Hollowblock are also must haves.
| 4 |
The biggest impact on my development as a climber:
| 5 |
Favorite way to spend a rest day:
Sleeping in, coffee in the sunshine, eating a big breakfast and chilling with my guy.
| 6 |
Last song I added to my playlist:
| 7 |
If I could only climb one route, it would be...
Apollo Reed at Summersville Lake, WV. It's special because it was my first (hopefully not my last) 5.13 send and my buddy Seiji who taught me how to climb over 20 years ago was there to belay me the day I sent. I love it because it's super steep and pumpy, the falls are clean and it's a great training route to stay in shape for everything else.
| 8 |
Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers:
Remember to breathe. Control your breath and you can control your mind and body.
| 9 |
My favorite climbing moment:
In addition to sending Apollo Reed, I'd have to say summiting El Capitan last summer on my first big wall aid climb and leading my first WI5 Ice route this past winter in Ouray, CO.
| 10 |
In 2018, I'm planning to...
Complete the first ascent of Darkhorse 8 which my guy and I established in memory of my late father. It's located at Mt. Charleston, NV and is 8 pitches long and should clock in around 5.13. I can't think of a better way to pay tribute and honor his memory.
—
Elaina Arenz
AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Warriors Way Trainer, La Sportiva & Bluewater Ambassador, Access Fund Board Member, Co-Owner Chicks Climbing
Las Vegas, NV
