Sunday, April 2, 2017

NOW PLAYING | E+F APRIL 17


Rainy day Sunday in Austin this weekend, so will be pulling on plastic later this afternoon at ABP and checking out Friends and Allies Brewing Company after. Things could definitely be worse.

Still I was really looking forward to an outdoor volume session in prep for Spain, now pushed off until September. A series of events at work forced me to delay my March trip to Costa Blanca with Rock & Sun, and, once I got over being irritated, I realized it was definitely for the best. Forever a glass-half-full kinda gal, it gives me six more months to train and get strong for the endurance fest I'm anticipating.

Speaking of training, started a six-week Endurance and Stamina training cycle with Power Company Climbing last week and already feeling the performance gains. More details to come, but for now will be finding my flow with the E+F April 17 playlist. Enjoy!



Saturday, March 4, 2017

TAKE 10 WITH COACH SEIJI



I flirted with rock climbing years ago when I was living in Dallas, TX, but didn't get dedicated until I relocated to Houston for work in 2014. In that short time and since returning to Austin this past August, I've been fortunate to connect and climb with some pretty amazing folks, living the uncommon life, each with their own
unique stories to tell. 

I've learned so much from their experience, both for climbing and for life, that it's inspired this new 'Take 10' series featuring a few of these personalities. First up, Seiji Ishii. Seiji and I were introduced very early in my climbing through the outdoor program at Austin Rock Gym. He was my guide when I was working to build my outdoor skills before my first big trip to Moab, UT, and I now count him as a friend and one of my personal climbing Jedi Masters. 

He's been a trainer to professional motocross and supercross riders for the past decade, boasting 12+ amateur national championships and a professional championship. Since 'retiring' (I use that term very loosely), he's returned to his past life as a full-time climber, outdoor enthusiast and gear designer. You can find him writing for both Upshift Online and Dirt Rider Magazine and providing gear reviews for Gear Institute, as well as developing and leading ARG's Performance Training Program.

|1|

I climb because... 

It’s a non-competitive sport that takes place in wilderness environments that has an element of risk. I am attracted to the wilderness and risk, and after a lifetime of competitive sports both as an athlete and a trainer, climbing offers the risk and wilderness without the negatives that can be spawned by person vs. person competition. 

|2|

My tried-and-true redpoint ritual: 

Left shoe on first while mentally saying “it’s only climbing,” for perspective; right shoe on next while mentally saying “climb position to position (clip stances),” as a strategy. Tie in and connect in some way with the belayer. Touch rock with hands, breathe in through nose while saying “right here,” breathe out through mouth saying “right now,” to keep focus on the present.


|3|

Essentials in my crag pack: 

This is Texas. Lots of extra chalk, lots of water. Satellite messenger and first aid, just in case.

|4| 

The biggest impact on my development as a climber: 

When I first started climbing, I lived with really passionate and basically full-time climbers. I was the weakest one of the group so I had the most to gain and they accepted me without regard to my ability. I will never forget.

|5| 

Favorite way to spend a rest day: 

Having an adventure with my three year old daughter Sequoia. Cycling or dirt biking. Attempting to improve my photography.


|6| 

Last song I added to my playlist: 

Life in a Northern Town by the Dream Academy. Yep, I’m old.

|7| 

If  I could only climb one route, it would be... 

Alpine route that started with an approach through the trees, giving way above treeline to alpine terrain before the glacier starts. Then climb a route that has glacier snow climbing, then crossing a ‘shrund so you have to climb ice, then mixed to gain the rock. Alpine rock to the summit. All forms of climbing in one route. Lots of this type of objective in the PNW.

|8|

Best advice to new and/or experienced climbers: 

Shelve your ego and seek mentorship, both for safety and progress.

|9| 

My personal climbing icon(s): 


|10| 

In 2017, I'm planning to... 

Fully recover from a dirt biking accident and return to solid 12’s on sport. Get 50+ trad multi pitch routes off my tick list. Be present and stoked when I’m around my daughter Sequoia. Hit up at least one alpine objective that adds to my progression in that realm. Stay up on dirt bikes.
Age gracefully. No. Fuck that. Beat age into submission.



Seiji Ishii
Climbing Guide/Coach, Action/Adventure Sports Writer, Rookie Father
Wimberly, TX



Sunday, February 26, 2017

NOW PLAYING | E+F MAR 17


Climbing season is (almost) here! We're already experiencing some pretty superb days in Texas. Here's a gorgeous image from Smith Rock captured by Pete Keane from Smith Rock Climbing School, together with a few tracks from my current playlist rotation for inspiration. Enjoy!





Sunday, February 19, 2017

5 FAVORITE THINGS




Trailside Kitchen Banana Pancakes. Make it a meal or a snack, perfectly packable for the crag. 


Jaybird X3 Wireless Buds. Now The Chainsmokers sound even better during my treadwall sessions. 





Margarita Martinez on TrainingBeta. 5.13d at 58? Yes, ma'am!




LunchBots. Hot or cold, I'm finally learning to like leftovers. 




SendWax. Made in Texas and healed up my split tips STAT. 




1 // 2 // 3 // 4 // 5

Saturday, December 31, 2016

NOW PLAYING | E+F BEST OF 2016


You can go ahead and add the week between Christmas and the New Year to my list of favorite things. For a brief moment, life slows down and there's a sense of magic in the air. A moment to pause and reflect on how far we've come and to dream about where we're headed over the next 365 days. 

I've spent a lot of time this last week doing a review of my 2016 and what I'm most hopeful for in the future that is 2017. If you're a Tim Ferriss fan like me and follow his podcast, you've more than likely already listened to Ep 210 'Becoming the Best Version of You.' If not, do it now. With guests Josh Waitzkin, Ramit Sethi and Adam Robinson, it's the best 1:35 you can spend.

The highlight for me was actually in the opening segment when Adam shares his keys to success. When asked how he thinks about the transition from one year to the next (resolutions, any particular routines or approaches closing out the year), he answered by saying that he likes to try and take stock of what he's learned over the past year, and that this year, he's learned three things. Three things he wishes he'd known when he was younger because, in his words, "I think they're the keys to success."

I'm not a big fan of resolutions, but I've decided to apply his lessons to my 2017 and always: 

Approach everything with enthusiasm.

Prioritize your relationships and connecting with people.

Expect magic. If you expect magic in every encounter, you find it. 

So here's to magic in 2017. And because I like to make monthly playlists, the E+F Best of 2016. 

Happy New Year!